With the industry all a-flutter over the wispy butterfly effects and gorgeously artistic looks created by volume lashes, our classic lash pals have seemingly been overshadowed! Classic lashes are the foundation on which all good lashing skills are built, and getting back to basics to firm up your foundation is essential for any successful lash artist.
Volume is a breakthrough, a true adrenaline-pumping marvel, skyrocketing looks into a galaxy only imagined before. We love them, you love them, and clients love them, but hold your horses, artists! There are proper steps to the top and I assure you that taking the elevator from basic classic skills all the way to the top floor is not the way. Take the stairs. It’s good for you.
What’s in between? Advanced classic lash classes. Some of the top companies out there realize it’s more than just classic and volume that there is a whole world of advanced technique that can segue way a new artist from one technique to another. Think capping, stacking, lash bumps, mink top coats, glitter, and color. OH MY! Let’s entice you with a few descriptions to get your fingers itching for some classic lash fun.
(All of these techniques can be called other things or described differently, so bear with me as I give you my own definitions and terms.)
Capping can be done on classic lash sets to add texture to the profile. This is assuming we are talking about .15 classic sets, max. Picture a client with a hooded lid. You give the client a beautiful L set and then low cap with C curl to soften the profile. Gorgeous! A low cap is done by applying a second lash straight forward, directly below your original lash. You know those times where you apply a D curl on the outer corner and they hook up too much on the ends? Add a low cap of C curl to bring that height more in proportion. A high cap can add height and open the eyes and the capped lash would be applied facing straight forward on top of the original lash. This works in cases where you are looking to add curl to a straighter lash. Capping can also help in a pinch if you have a client show up after a major growth spurt from growth supplements. To cap a gap, simply place one .1 or .07 lash at the base again on grown out but still bonded lashes. Most often, clients will only have about two months of hard-to-handle growth, so after that period you will just fill as usual.
Stacking is beautiful on those with healthy lashes that are set a little farther and fewer between. Unlike capping, stacking is generally done with the lash placed to the side to form a Y shape. You can also mix curl degrees with this technique. One of my favorite ways to stack is with real mink fur lashes. These soft, feathery lashes have varying degrees of curl and add a fluttery effect when stacked on the outer third of the eye. This is a service I added to my menu as an add-on option. We call it the mink top-coat and add 15 extra minutes for $40.
Both stacking and capping are quick and easy because you are applying to already existing extensions. Isolation and placement can be done quickly and fifteen minutes should be enough time at the end of an application to cap or stack strategically throughout.
Another cool add-on service for my classic sets is called a lash bump. This is also a 15-minute service but only costs $30, since we don’t use real mink. This is for your clients who seek a liner effect or who are looking for “thicker” lashes. Using a thin sticky gel pad or tape that has been de-tacked a bit, tape back the lashes to expose their under layer of lashes. These fine, short lashes can be extended with short .15 or .18 lashes to add fullness at the base.
Glitter and colored lashes are my absolute favorite. The artistic creativity is endless and the looks you can create are so subtle but so effective. People hear glitter lashes or even gemstone lashes and think… woah… but, I assure you, they are phenomenal. If you were to break the lash line into four parts, starting on the outer corner, you would generally apply your accent lashes within the second fourth. Applying all the way to the outer corner will look bizarre the same way applying too close to the inner corner would. Directly in their point of accentuation (the spot of their longest extensions) is where you want to concentrate.
If we’re talking glitter or gemstones, three lashes spaced evenly, cut to progressive lengths, is usually plenty. For color, well, anything goes! Most often, for a bold effect you would color block by placing several color lashes side-by-side to really make the accents obvious. For a more subtle eye color-enhancing highlight, you can stud the colored lashes throughout the lash line completely. Purple is gorgeous on dark eyes and I have done some amazing sets in tones of brown and auburn for those with ruddy light completions or red hair. Use your creativity to mimic a peacock feather with color blocks of blue green, purple and gold or have clients add hot pink streaks to their lashes in support of breast cancer and make a donation!
Essentially, what I’m saying here is that there is so much fun to be had here with classic technique and so much to learn and master. Don’t rush perfection; take the right steps to secure a firm foundation of skills before scrambling for that top rung. I recommend an advanced classic lash extension class for any and all serious lash artists. In my class, we cover not only these fun skills, but also thorough consultation, cleansing, different pad placement techniques, taping up, and many other skills that simply must be mastered before moving on to courses like volume.
Happy lashing, all!